WINTERIZING YOUR OUTBOARD

People often say they’ve never winterized their motor in the past, why should they spend time and money doing something if it doesn’t need it? The reality is that improper off-season storage of an outboard motor has cumulative effects. During the off season, engine and drive components can and do rust depending mostly on the heat and humidity of the storage conditions. Any moisture that has been emulsified into the engine oil or the lower unit gear oil will separate over time and cause rust. When rust forms, it creates pitting in the metal — specifically, the hardened steel surfaces the needle bearings in modern engines utilize. When the engine is started each spring, the rust is washed away and the pitting remains until one year the bearing calls it quits with sometimes disastrous consequences. Many people don’t associate mechanical failure with poor engine storage because the failure often takes place in the middle of summer and no connection is made to poor storage practices. Naturally, when this happens, they’ll blame the engine manufacturer instead of placing the blame squarely where it belongs.

First, always follow the instructions given by the manufacturer in your Parsun Outboard Owners Manual. That said, here is some additional information about winterizing your Parsun Outboard. As always, if you are not confident and competent in doing this work yourself, take the outboard to a competent service center or contact us for a referral.

Tools and supplies:

• Large flat blade screwdriver
• Aerosol can of Fogging Oil
• Fuel Stabilizer
• Optional Fuel Filter (see your owner’s manual)
• Lower Unit Gear Oil (see your owner’s manual)
• Outboard Motor Gear Oil pump with Yamaha adaptor OR gear oil tubes
• 2 fill/vent screw gaskets
• Engine Oil (see your owner’s manual)
• Oil filter if equipped (see your owner’s manual)
• Grease gun

To prevent condensation in the fuel tank and prevent breakdown of the fuel during storage, fill the fuel tank with gas and the appropriate amount of fuel stabilizer (follow directions on the label for storage). Why stabilize the fuel? The current shelf life of today’s fuels is about three months. After that, the additives begin to separate, the octane level drops; the gas begins the process of ‘going bad’ and forms varnishes which gum up the carburetor.

The goal in this next step is to bring the engine up to operating temperature and allow enough time for the stabilizer to reach the carbs (10-15 minutes at idle, or 3 minutes at wide open throttle). This step can be done during the last run of the season, just top up the fuel with stabilizer treated fuel afterwards. Since portable steel tanks were used for many years with outboard motors, visually inspect for water in the bottom of any steel tank(s) using a flashlight. If water is found (round globs on the bottom of the tank), dump the tank and flush thoroughly. If rust is evident, the tank should be disposed of and replaced with a new plastic style. So with the motor in the water, or using a pair of earmuffs (to supply the engine with water ***NEVER run a motor without water supplied to the water intake***), do the following:

• Remove the carburetor breather cover if necessary to gain access.
• Install the straw adapter on the can of fogging oil and bring the engine up to about 1500 RPM.
• While holding down on the release button of the fogger, spray fogging oil into each carb throat for about 3-5 seconds, then move onto the next throat. Keep going from carb to carb until a steady thick white smoke appears out the exhaust. Depending on the size of the engine, this should consume about half to 3/4 of a can of fogging oil.
• Turn the engine off immediately after you’ve finished spraying the fogging. Don’t wait for the smoke to stop.
• Pull the boat out of the water (or remove the ear muffs) and keep the motor in a vertical position for at least ten minutes to ensure all water is drained from the block and passages (outboard motors are self draining and require no anti-freeze for storage).
• While the motor is draining you can replace the fuel filter (see owners manual) and,
• Drain the engine oil (see Owner’s Manual) and replace the oil filter if equipped.
• Refill the crankcase with new oil if the motor can be stored upright. ***Note for next season: DO NOT ever run the outboard without the correct amount and viscosity of oil in the crankcase.

If possible, the engine should be stored with engine oil installed in an upright position in the coldest condition possible (rust processes are slowed considerably at low temperatures, and no humidity to promote rust exists below freezing). The worst place to store your outboard is in your basement beside your furnace — high humidity and warmth will seize an engine in no time.

Store the carbs wet or dry?

Today’s carburetors utilize many neoprene, rubber, and alcohol resistant materials. Draining the fuel system for storage can put these parts at risk by allowing the materials to dry out and crack. Most (if not all) manufacturers recommend the carbs be left ‘wet’ — that is, ensure the fuel is stabilized and left in the carb during the storage period. However, if the engine will be stored on its side, or will be traveling in a vehicle before lay-up, it may be best to drain the fuel system by disconnecting the fuel line while fogging the engine, then continue to fog until the engine runs out of fuel (choking it just as it’s dying will get the last bit of fuel out).

Lube Points

Now is a great time to get the lube gun out and grease all the lube points. See your owners manual for locations of grease fittings on your motor.

Gearcase Oil Change

Part of winterizing your outboard really should include inspecting the gear oil before storage because if water is present in the lower unit your gears and bearings will rust. Water in the lower unit can freeze and crack the case. It is the owner’s responsibility to see the motor is properly and adequately serviced.

The drain/fill screw is located just beneath the ‘bullet’ shape of the gearcase, while the vent/overflow screw is located just above the cavitation plate.

• Remove the drain/fill screw, then the upper vent/overflow screw.
• Inspect the quality of the gear oil while it drains. DO NOT remove any other screws.

Re-filling the gearcase (DO NOT leave it empty for the storage period):

• Replace the drain/fill and vent/overflow screw gaskets.
• Next, many manufacturers supply their oil in soft squeezable bottles, or optional hand pumps can be purchased. If you decide on the hand pump (less messy) you will need one with the Yamaha fitting. Whichever method you choose, fill from the bottom hole until it comes out the top hole. Yes, it has to be filled this way to prevent air pockets from forming and causing your lower unit to over-heat and burn out.
• Install the top screw first
• Remove the filler tube or pump from the bottom hole and quickly install the screw there as well.

NOTE: Be careful not to cross-thread these screws.

• Tighten but don’t over-tighten the screws and wipe off the excess oil. Speaking of excess oil, please make sure you dispose of the old oil in an environmentally responsible manner.

NOTES: White or creamy oil indicates you have water contamination. If you find this condition, have a dealer perform a pressure and vacuum test on the lower unit. It goes without saying that if nothing but water comes out of the oil cavity, you’re likely in need of something more than seals. Grey oil usually indicates a failure of some sort has occurred in the lower unit (chipped gears or bearing failure). In some cases, prolonged use of the same oil can lead to the same oil condition. If you find you’re oil is grey with a very strong odour, see your dealer for service and advice. Black oil indicates all is OK, you’re just a bit overdue on your change cycle. Gear oil should be changed every 50-100 hours of operation, or at least once annually — whichever comes first. Many lower units use a magnet on the drain screw. It’s is normal to see a collection of fine metal filings, but if you find metal chunks, it’s best to have the unit looked at by a professional.

Batteries

Disconnect or remove any batteries from the boat. Turning the battery switch off is not good enough, neither is just removing one cable. Clean the terminals and tops of the batteries as any moisture or dirt will allow cross discharge between the posts. The batteries should be stored in a cool, dry place. Warm humid storage will promote cross discharge through the air. Charge the batteries at least every two months. Watch your water levels and top up as necessary.

Towards safe and happy boating. Good job. And Kudos to www.allboating.com for the great winter boating picture.